Hi all, I sick of having David Grey passing me on the straight looking at me and sitting on the tail of his Daytona 675 so I decided I want one. Just kidding of course...Dave would pass me with pretty much any motorcycle...lol I have been seriously considering to buy a Daytona as track/race bike. I have always stayed away from non japanese brands just because of the unbeatable reliability of jap bikes. However I think things are changed a lot in the past decade for many (non-jap) brands. Can you guys (preferably Daytona owners) share your experience with your Triumph? My main concerns/questions are: - reliability - any special maintenance - stock/aftermarket part accessibility, cost, and availability - anything else you can think of... Thank you, Guido
Your youtube videos are da bomb. Cant wait to see you on a 675r. The short time i had the base model on a test ride, i was in love. Wish i could have rode one on track.
I wonder what new model they will come out with now they are moto2 suppliers. Maybe the 675 will drop in price at that time???
thanks...but now I need to crash less lol ps: how are you? I don't recognize your nick name here that's a good point
If you plan on tracking/racing it, I would suggest getting a 2013 or newer. The older ones you have to do quite a bit of upgrading/replacing. Which is why I traded in my 2009, for my 2014. This is my 2nd one, and I won't ride anything else. I love the narrow saddle, the torque it has coming off the corners, and OMG the sound it makes. Yes, do get the R model. Triumphs are just as reliable as the Japanese counterparts, provided doing a little preventative maintenance. For some reason they do NOT know what loc-tite is. I'll explain on the "special maintenance". You will eventually have to replace the shift detent wheel and plate kit. Not that big of deal, it's a $56 kit. When you shift in high RPM so much (aka racing, frequent trackdays), it wears down. You'll know it, as when you shift it will feel like a grinding in the shifter. Special Maintenance: If you see ANY shiny steel bolts on the engine, LOC-TITE IT! That is the problem with most Daytonas, after about 2500 miles they back out, causing an oil leak. I knew this, and when I got mine, I loc-tite them all, and had no problem. Another thing, while not a special maintenance, a lot of people remove the ABS, because, everytime you turn off the bike, it resets to ON. It has ON/CIRCUIT/OFF. Absolutely, positively, DO NOT even TRY to get your ECU flashed. They have it locked down like Fort Knox. Anyone other than a dealer, tries to pen the ECU, it will lock down into limp mode. The dealer will then have to open the ECU back up, for a price. Use a Power commander V. Don't try and use a large rear tire. Some people say a 190/60 (even a 190/55 is close) and it rubs the swingarm. I am happy Dunlop has come out with a 180/60. Stock/aftermarket: Not as good as Japanese bikes, but that is because they are more rare. We don't have 900,000 19 yr old squids parting out their total loss bikes. ;-) There is quite a few aftermarket, including UK Race Support (huge in Britain), Attack, Driven, etc. I use Pandora's as it's in Chattanooga. Pure Triumph, also. Cost is no different than the big 4, except maybe specialty parts. Bolts are metric. I am a moderator (same name) for triumph675.net, jump over there and explore what's special about them, or what's wrong with them. -Shamrock
Shamrock, thank you very much for all the good info. I actually went ahead and bought a 2014...I couldn't wait more lol Lock tite hu? I will do it. I'm just gonna use the blue stuff...or should I go with the red one? Very nice tip on the ecu, thanks. Also good catch on the tire sizes. I recently switched to Bridgestone and they have a weird name for the rear, 190/650...I don't think it actually is a 190. Do you know if they fit or not? I can always try anyways...I have takeoffs. Thanks again for the tips! Guido
DONT DO IT!!! Well that is unless you have a lot of disposable income. I did the whole euro brand thing with a Ducati.... parts are ridiculously more expensive for the euro stuff and a ton less are available. As it was mentioned before the squids make the jap brands much more budget friendly and parts more readily available, better forum tech support imo, and if you need a part there usually is a close jap dealership wherever your at.
Just nitpicking, my buddy (2012 D675) upgraded to a 190/## tire per Dave Grey's recommendation, and I (2012 D675) followed suit the next year. He had power cups and I've got power RSs, neither set rubs. I don't know if there is any advantage but I'm not that fast anyways... As far the Daytona itself goes, I love it. Want to upgrade my 12 to a newer one. Haven't had many maintenance or parts issues but I haven't done a lot with mine besides play in traffic in intermediate and street riding.
If your chain is long enough, it won't rub, but it has to be over half way of adjustment (axle placement). At least on my 2014 it does. Changes the wheelbase and turn in quite a bit.
I love my 675 (2014). I can second the detent wheel/plate comment, I just had an issue with mine where I could not shift at high RPM. But it has now been replaced and shifts beautifully again. Supposedly the issue has been fixed with the newer Daytonas and the replacement parts. No issues other than that and I am about to hit 13k miles, soon to be my dedicated track bike. Seems to be a decent amount of aftermarket part availability.
Going into turn 1 at Grattan, he looks over at me and backs it in, smoke coming from the rear tire. This was the first time in A group a few weeks ago, it was a very humbling experience.
I concur. I love my 2015 and I have never felt deprived or overcharged for parts. I have no doubt Japanese bike parts are more readily available and cheaper but, it has never been an issue for me and my Daytona. I have never owned a Ducati but, from what I have read, I don't think the Triumph situation is anything like that of the Ducati. Wonderful bikes though - just out of my price range.
Something we found out recently, stay away from the lightweight lithium batteries. Electrical issues will ensue.
I have had a Deltran Battery Tender on my 2009 since I bought it in 2010, and now have the same brand battery on my 2014. Just because "you" did, doesn't mean others will. Trust me, I am a moderator at triumph675.net and I have seen a lot of these threads. If you have a 2006-2011 model year Triumph, you will have Regulator/rectifier problems no matter what battery you have. There was a recall on them, and have been fixed. Then there is the occasional stator going bad, but that is because of the previous unrecalled bad R/Rs. If you upkeep a lithium battery properly, they will work just fine. DO NOT keep them on a battery tender/maintenance charger. Bring them inside for the winter. I also do not "starve" the electrical system, by getting a tiny amp battery. It is recommended to get 120CCA (I know, it's an equivelant), I get the 240CCA. No problems in 7 years. Some more FREE advice. If you have a 2006-2012 Daytona, do NOT race it, AT ALL, until you change the heat exchanger/oil cooler. It DOES fail under racing conditions (constant RPMs), and will blow an engine. 2013+ has been fixed.
Hi, I just purchased a '15 Daytona and I really love it! Yesterday at the track though after a few laps on few instances I was unable to shift up from 3rd to 4th with QS neither with the clutch until slowing down in lower revs.Would you say that sounds like a shift detent wheel and plate to be changed?