Fast Frank Racing QK ... ???

Lots of bikes running the daytona 200 ran these kits. You probably have to pin the rear brake caliper bracket in place, the wheel spacers have lips that go under the dust seals to hold them in place. Not sure how the rest of the system works, but lots of people like them and use them.

 

I've moved this over to the "Ask Teddy" section.... as he can probably answer better than anyone, as he has prepped bikes to run in the 200.

But ya, step one is captive spacers. I do believe the Apex team makes them and that's what they were using on the Triumphs.

The front fender is shortened to aid in front wheel r&r.

Brake pads are held in with rare earth magnets... and the edge of the pad is chamfered to make sure the brake rotor can get in there easily.

It's all the little things that help......

t

 

here is an example of what the kawasaki racing team did on my bike for the rear caliper, fast franks is a very similar system





you can see the caliper bracket has been machined to install a bushing that runs from the bracket thru the swinger to the axle block. fastfrank uses two bolts, his system doesn't require the bracket,swinger,adjuster block to be machined (more end user friendly)



the other adjuster block is attached to the axle and pinned


im not 100% on how the front system works

 

I have Gilles chain adjusters on my 05 and they made the rear brake caliper captive - awesome! I was then able to change my own rear wheel.

On the 08 I have not gotten this yet and I simply can't hold the wheel up, try to place it, and not knock the caliper off it's shelf...before next season I will have the rear caliper captive piece installed.

 

Please see below in red.

 

Teddy I expect to see these on Richards new 2 Stroke I gave him this last weekend.... Make it happen!!

 

For anyone looking for captive spacers, contact Good Grip Racing. They have there own line machined specifically for them, and they are the cheapest ive found. I run them on all my sets of R6 rims. Love them.

http://www.goodgripracing.com/

 

Fast Frank products are a luxury for trackday riders, but what a blessed luxury! Wheel changes are a pain in the ass and some bikes are worse than others. The Fast Frank videos are true. I've seen the stuff in action.

Personally, I like to have a spare set of wheels mounted with rain tires. As a coach, I'm expected to ride regardless of weather and I don't want to miss a session swapping from slicks to rains. When I ran a 1000, I often had weekends where I was burning up the last miles of previously used rear slicks and might swap several times in a weekend.

My 07-08 GSXR750 is one of those bikes that seems built to laugh at the mechanic during rear wheel changes. I have added a few tricks which make things easier.

My axle adjusting blocks are a set from HPR, which don't seem to be available any more. These are thicker than stock and come drilled for tricky bits. On the brake caliper side, a long 4mm allen screw fits into the block, runs through the swingarm and screws to the caliper. This holds both axle block and caliper to the swingarm as one solid unit during tire changes. You loosen the 4mm screw for chain adjustment, then tighten it again for captive wheel changes. The axle block on the other side is retained to the axle with a set screw.

I have captive spacers in both sets of wheels, made by STT coach Stuart Moore. No more falley outee!

I safety-wired the inboard rear brake pad to the caliper. The caliper is a sliding design so this does not compromise pad function. The outboard pad is on the piston. Taking a trick from the days when I crewed at Vesrah Suzuki, I got some 1 inch round magnets and JB Welded them into the piston in a stack that comes just flush with the pad. Now it stays with the piston. My last mod was to bevel the bottom edges of the pads so that the rotor slips right up in there.

Up front, all I have is a Stuart Moore spacer kit. I never really found it that hard to swap the front tire and I don't do endurance racing.

Modifying your axles and brakes is serious business. If you don't know what you're doing, serious consequences could arise. Fast Frank products are very well engineered and THAT is what you're paying for. The end user gets a really nice system that is safe, proven to work and bolts right on.

Hope this helped!

 

I've had the FF quick change stuff for a couple of years. It's certainly not something you need, but that's also true of a dedicated track bike, and all kinds of other things. All you truly need for this sport is an appropriate motorcycle and gear. Everything beyond that is purely personal preference, right?

Anyway, if your time at the track to work on your bike is limited, or you just hate making wheel swaps, then you'll be very happy with the FF kits.

I can mount wheels by myself in about 60 seconds for each. I'm sure I could do it faster if that was important to me. I've had people ask me about it at the track and have actually removed them before just to show how easy it is. Can you imagine doing that with a standard mounted front wheel?

Personally I hate making wheel swaps (even at home) and doing it in the dark at the track while everyone else is having a good time, or during the day when there are other things going on just isn't how I want to spend my time. Having this little luxury not only makes this tolerable, but it actually gives me more quality time at the track, as well as on the track, because now instead of waiting until the end of the day to mount fresh tires I can do it in between sessions if I want to.

The front wheel is the big deal IMO. Jerry Daggit set mine up and it's extremely slick, with springs mounting the front fender that slightly splay the fork legs open when you pull the wheel out. The inside of the calipers are machined so the edges are rounded and allow the wheel to be pulled out and pushed in easily. I bevel the brake pads to allow the rotors to easily slip into place when installing a wheel. The only real secret is having a fork stand that just barely lifts the front wheel off the ground (think just enough to see daylight under the tire). That way the the axle holes in the fork tubes line up with the hole in the wheel with the wheel still on the ground. All I have to do is pull the quick release safety wire pin, use a breaker bar to to loosen the axle and then it comes free in about four or five turns, pull the axle, pull the wheel out. Push the new wheel in, push the axle through, tighten it four or five turns, and then slip the safety wire pin back in place. It takes me twice as long to type that as it actually does to change the wheel.

 

Captive spacers front and rear, and a retained rear caliper mount are really all you need.

IMHO anyone that knows how to take off the front and rear wheels with these simple items can change wheels with minimal problems, its rather fast, our race bikes to not have quick change axles, just captive spacers and retained rear caliper bracket, rear brake pads are radiused on the back so the rotor slips in easy, most of the rear rotors are also radiused so they do not catch the brake pads. Stock Brembo rotors have a radiused edges so they do not catch the brake pads when installing the front wheel.

I hope all this info helps people!