Great info on the TC unit, I had no idea. I also had no idea about any geometry issue. What is the issue and how do you fix it? I have an '11 GSX-R750. I have another question on the exhaust. I know you get more power with the full system (and I'm assuming you mean replacing the full system), but can you get any power benefit from a mid pipe and slip on? Or are you just saving weight and getting a better look and sound? I like the Yosh but I also prefer the shorter GP style exhaust. It doesn't look like they offer that style in the Yosh (on STG's site anyway). Same with M4 if I'm not mistaken. Do they only make the shorter GP style as a slip on? I've been learning a lot since tracking and doing a lot of my own maintenance lately but am not knowledgeable on the the whole dyno / mapping / exhaust issues. Also clueless as to the geometry issue.
Found this on a thread on gixxer.com about the geometry issue. I take it this is what you are referring to? "I believe the 2011 GSXR 600/750 have an inherent geometry issue as they have since 2006-ish. The problem is the bike doesn't have enough swingarm angle. This results in too much squat during acceleration, which in turn causes Head Shake / Tank Slap / Running Wide issues. The most effective way to increase swingarm angle is to increase the rear ride height. Once you do that you'll probably want to increase the front as well to #1 bring the front end geometry back to stock (or at least closer) #2 further increase swingarm angle. This is why they sell fork extenders for the GSXR's."
GSXR's rock on track nothing wrong with them. Been on them since the beginning of time. Nothing's perfect but personally I wouldnt be tracking a stock bike anyway now days. One call to Thermosman and I'm on my way. No fancy power making stuff, bikes are pretty good stock. I rode a stock GSXR plus suspension upgrades pretty good racing with wera back in 2002-2004. Hell I didn't even buy rearsets or clipons. Couldn't afford all that fancy stuff. Just don't crash. I'm still on GSXR's to date and love the engineering on them. It just works.
Yes. On my 2009 I believe we raised the rear a lot, something like 8mm IIRC and then we had to raise the front also. I have heard they have made small chassis changes which improved the geometry and so much extra height isn't required. But i am not sure when those changes went into effect. You will need to talk to somebody like Kent at GMD Atlanta, or Thermosman (Mike Fitzgerald), or Livengood, or Joe Kraft about your particular bike. I didnt need fork extensions, as there is a modification where you can machine your OEM Triples to give you more room and that is what was done to mine. But with that being said, they handle decent out of the box. Gixxers are good bikes. Like Roy said, they just work. They aren't the sharpest (R6) or the most comfortable (CBR) or have the best components (675) or the best motor (ZX6R), but they do everything pretty damn good.
No we won't! LOL I've had Bazzaz QS since 2008. Have I had a switch fail? Yes, I've had 2 go bad between 4 bikes over that time after a ton of usage. I carry a spare in my parts kit just in case. But I have seen Dynojet switches got bad as well for other people. Basically any of them can go out.
On the geometry, Chris is correct, the newer ones don't need to be raised as much as the older ones. On my K6 and K7 you went up about 8-12mm depending on rider preference, I typically ran 9mm over stock. On the L1-3 600/750 a starting point is 4mm (319mm eye-to-eye), you can go up to say 323mm but I definitely wouldn't recommend that without fork extenders. Even at 319mm you will want to at least flush the forks even with the top of the triple clamp to get some trail back. To be honest since these bikes are borderline on trail anyway, with stock suspension I would simply flush the front forks out and leave the rear ride height alone. When you reach the stock stuff limits then worry more about the geometry when you upgrade the suspension and work with a tuner you trust.
Another vote for the Bazzaz stuff. I have had it on my R6 since I bought it in 09 and its been flawless. Yes, it takes some time to set up properly, but so does proper suspension set up. All i can figure on Broome's shifter issues is that he has a horse's hoof for a left foot and the delicate finesse of a blacksmith when shifting :fencing:
Ahem. Like I said, I raced the 675 for 2 years with no issues with the Bazzaz QS either. I'm not saying they are junk. I'm just saying they aren't as reliable as the DJ stuff because of how they engage. And that isn't just from my experience, that is straight from Livengood and he deals with hundreds of QS's a year. If somebody has one, cool. But if I didn't have one and was starting from stock, I would get a DJ before a Bazzaz. .02
Just an FYI, Bazzaz has come out with a new shift sensor, a strain gauge based unit. It is a few more dollars than the old one but if you have to replace a switch that has gone bad it should be a much more robust unit. Plus it works with both push and pull applications so you could switch from standard to GP without buying a new switch (or move it to a new bike that uses the opposite motion for the same pattern).