riveting a chain

Check out the second half of the first post. It's how I've always done my chains, and never had an issue.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331112

 

The better chain tool kits come with a spacer that is inserted between the plates to prevent that exact problem. Use that, easy peezy.

 

The better chain tool kits come with a spacer that is inserted between the plates to prevent that exact problem. Use that, easy peezy.

 

Measure the rivet's flare; usually the master link's manufacturer will have it listed in their installation instructions. A dial caliper will come in handy for doing this.

 

You must use a rivit tool and it does not squish the o-ring. The o-rings get pinched when in stalling the plate you just have to be careful. I've nevery used the spacer thing previously mentioned

 

I just did my chain for the first time in my life, I would say, take your time and don't over tight the rivet tool

PS: Are you sure you want 520 chain on the R1?

 

I put 520 and renthal sprockets(15/42or43 which is -1/+1or2) on my CBR 1K and I know other guys running the same thing. I wouldn't worry.

 

The flaring of the pin is to keep the side plate on and isn't a structural part of the chain. The pins take all the load so there isn't a need to be super critical of how much it's flared.

You can crack the pins if you flare them too much so after a turn or two of tightening the rivet tool I would take it off and check to see no cracks had formed.

 

Pretty sure the plates are structural.... try removing one and see what happens!

 

I think his point was simply that the flare on the pin wasn't a structural component. Could be wrong, it's tough to read tone on the internets.

 

RK Chain tool. Great little tool, I can probably do a chain swap in 5 minutes and no worry about a master link failing. I thought about cheaping out and doing the hammer peening method but didn't feel comfortable with it. The chain is a pretty important part of the motorcycle and a broken one can poke a nice little hole in your engine...

 

The pins are what connect the chain together and take all of the force. The side plate just keeps the pins in line and doesn't take the beating.

It's why the clip (instead of a rivet) works. The clip is physically weak since it doesn't do any work.

All I'm saying is you don't have to turn riveting a chain in rocket surgery. Press it on, don't crush the o-rings, and flare it with out cracking the pin. Even a minuscule amount of flare is enough.

 

I have used the Ball Peen hammer method many times with no issues... However last Month I borrowed Ogre's Chain tool to put on the new RK... Broke one of his Pins pushing a Pin out.... (BTW Ed my stepbrother is fabbing a new one up for you) The key is to not over press the Rivets when putting on a Master..... Remember... The pressure is not pushed out... It is all linear and pulled... These just need to be mushroomed out a hair and you need to make sure the master moves on both ends...

 

Pall peen hammer? Smh.... Those rivit tool pins always break, nothing beats a grinder to remove a chain!

 

This is crazy talk and I'm speachless...

 

Peeecans - Pecans... Tomatoes - Tahhmatoes....Gummie Bears-- Vannn --- Bears As long as the wheels are turning....:thumb:

 

I grind the rivet flat then use a chain tool and have never broke a pin.

I have done smaller chains with out grinding first with out problems.